[Hai-users] Replacing ALC switch with UPB
Tom Morgan
tom at worthdist.com
Wed May 15 05:26:50 CDT 2013
I always recommend relays. A triad is never 100% efficient so some ballasts will not react as quickly or without a short flicker. In the end both work; however, I have never had a compatibility issue with the relay versions.
Sent from my iPhone
On May 14, 2013, at 5:09 PM, "Dan Barclay" <Dan at BarclaySoftware.com<mailto:Dan at BarclaySoftware.com>> wrote:
With regard to straight up Fluorescent fixtures (shop, garage, etc… not CFL’s), what is the recommended solution?
I currently use ALC relay switches for that kind of thing, but I also see that 35A00-3 suggested for that service. What are you guys using in that application? I don’t mind a couple of extra bucks to use the relays, but didn’t know if there was some other advantage to using the 35A… vs the 40A…
Are there other considerations besides the “click” and a couple of bucks? What is your practice?
Dan
From: Tom Morgan [mailto:tom at worthdist.com]
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 3:15 PM
To: Dan Barclay; hai-users at tssi.com<mailto:hai-users at tssi.com>
Subject: RE: [Hai-users] Replacing ALC switch with UPB
The short answer:
The 1CFL is listed for LED and CFL. Electrically they are almost identical, the big difference is the ramping. Simply put, if you put an incandescent bulb on a 1CFL it will electrically work; however, you will quickly say "Why is the dimming curve so weird?" Instead of a linear ramp rate it will start at full, appear not to dim and then drop like a brick, then off. It doesn't mean it doesn't work, it just is probably not what you are looking for.
Tom Morgan
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